“To enter the world of Zapotec weavings is to be pitched into a universe of color and texture, a visual feast. Everywhere in Teotitlán skeins of freshly dyed yarns, warmed by the sun, are drying against rough adobe walls... This intoxicating panorama fills one’s senses and casts a joyous, magical spell.”
-- from Zapotec Weavers of Teotitlán (1999) by Andra Fischgrund Stanton
Highlights of Teotitlán del Valle and Environs
Teotitlán's Daily Market - Get up early to join the Teotitlán housewives in their morning ritual of shopping for the day’s food. Here the lengua franca is Zapotec (or Didxsa), so don’t be surprised if you can’t understand. This Zapotec market is a feast for all the senses. The 21st century disappears as one sees the Zapotec women, most dressed in the traditional traje and heads crowned with their long, ribbon-decorated braids, bargaining with the venders. We'd like to remind the photographers to please ask permission before you click. Buying something and promising (sincerely) to send a copy are good ways to get that photo. The market is open 8:30 am - 10:00 am every day, and is located on the north side of the church.
Church Built Over a Zapotec Temple - The Templo de la Virgen de la Natividad, begun in the 16th century, rests on top of a Zapotec temple destroyed by the Spanish. It is the center of religious and ceremonial life of the pueblo. Don’t miss the lovely courtyard with fascinating carvings on the columns and the carved stones set in the walls. Walk behind the church to see the remnants of the original Zapotec temple.
Zapotec Museum - Balla Xtee Guech Gulal (House of the Ancient Pueblo) - This small museum will pleasantly surprise you with its displays revealing the ancient history of the Tlacolula valley and Teotitlán del Valle. Here you’ll learn the history of weaving and, via a series of life-size tableau, the traditions of courtship and marriage. (10 a.m. - 5 p.m., most days; located in the Mercado de Artesania, in front of the Municipio; 10 peso donation)
Zapotec Rugs - Teotitlán offers the shopper many opportunities to buy beautiful hand-woven Zapotec rugs and much more. Smart shoppers take their time before buying. A visit to the Mercado de Artesania (south side of church) and a walk around town will let you see the wares of the many families who weave in the village. Most Zapotec weavers will gladly explain the processes of dyeing and weaving. Check out www.Planeta.com for a directory of just some of these families. Happy shopping!
Teotitlán Walks and Hikes
Hiking up Picacho, the mini-mountain that reigns over the village, can take from 30 minutes to 2 hours depending upon one’s fitness and chosen pace. The climb is fairly challenging, and good hiking boots, hat and water are musts. Before you set out, check in at the Museum to make a contribution toward the trail maintenance and to arrange for a local person to accompany you with a key to the gate protecting the shrine at the very top. It is certainly worth the effort; the view from the top is wonderful.
Walkers can get exercise and meet friendly people by setting out in almost any direction from the center of town. Following the main street (Benito Juarez) to the north will bring you to the dam (la presa). To the west you will wander through fields lush with alfalfa and corn. Walk to the east just before sunset and you’ll have to give way to herds of goats, burros and toros being brought in from pasture.
Birding During the migration season (October - February) Oaxaca is a prime birding destination. More than 300 species come to winter here, and our local bird guides Roque Antonio and Eric Antonio are the ones who can take you to see these wonderful creatures.
Contact Roque Antonio by email: roque_antonio740@hotmail.com and click here to visit his web site.
Contact Eric Antonio by email: mirmidons_1987@yahoo.com and click here to visit his web site.
